Lessons on the preservation, promotion and applicationof Batik heritage in a modern life of Indonesia

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During the UNESCO meeting from September 28th to October 2nd, 2009 in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates), Indonesian Batik costumes were honored as Intangible Cultural Heritage of humanity. And, to receive this event, also on October 2nd, all Indonesian people unanimously wore Batik clothes.

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Nghiên Tạp chí cứu Khoatrao họcđổi ● Research-Exchange - Viện of 64 Đại học Mở Hà Nội opinion (2/2020) 1-6 1 LESSONS ON THE PRESERVATION, PROMOTION AND APPLICATIONOF BATIK HERITAGE IN A MODERN LIFE OF INDONESIA Ngo Van Doanh* Date received the article: 2/8/2019 Date received the review results: 3/2/2020 Date published the article: 28/2/2020 Abstracts: During the UNESCO meeting from September 28th to October 2nd, 2009 in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates), Indonesian Batik costumes were honored as Intangible Cultural Heritage of humanity. And, to receive this event, also on October 2nd, all Indonesian people unanimously wore Batik clothes. Afterwards, the Batik festivals took place on the streets of Java province. UNESCO’s tribute is the recognition of the hard work and wisdom of talented Java weavers who constantly create, preserve and develop their Batik art. Thanks to these extraordinary eﬀorts, the traditional handicrafts of a few small villages on the island of Java have gradually become a national cultural symbol and are recognized as a world heritage. So what is Batik? How is Batik technology and art conceived and developed as well as recognized by both Indonesia and the world as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity? Keywords: Lesson, preservation, promotion, heritage, Batik, Indonesia. According to the researchers, from the Even in the semantics of “write”, etymological perspective, the name Batik “tattoo” or “dot” of the name, there is more may be a root word of the Java language: or less showing the technical aspects of amba (“write”) and titik (meaning “dot” or Batik: dyeing the fabric with wax resistants “point”; or possibly a word derived from painted on the fabric before being dye to the Proto-Austronesian language: becik create certain patterns, textures, images ... (“tattoo” with a pin). During the Dutch According to researchers, this technique of colonial period, in Indonesia, the art was dyeing cloth using wax has been popular referred to by some similar names: mbatek, in many parts of the world since ancient batek, mbatik and batik. And, it was not times. Through the samples of clothing until 1880, in Europe, for the ﬁrst time and fabrics discovered by archaeologists, that the name Batik was announced in it can be seen that, right from the ﬁfth and England in “Encyclopaedia Britannica” fourth century BC, Indians and Egyptians and oﬃcially pronounced Batik. had known wax dyeing technique. * Vietnam Academy of Social Sciences, VASS
2 Nghiên cứu trao đổi ● Research-Exchange of opinion Chinese people from the Sui Batik attire. According to historical records, period (581-618) and Japanese from the the King (sultan) Agung of Mataram wore Nara period (710-794) used this dyeing white cotton clothes with indigo blue technique. So, in Indonesia, when did decorations, and the royal court dancers this technology appear? Researcher wore Batik cloth skirts (kain kembangan) G.P.Rouﬀaer said that Batik was introduced dyed red. After that, since becoming a Dutch into Java from India or Sri Lanka (Xay colony in the early nineteenth century, Batik Lan) in the VI-VII century. Meanwhile, of Java island began to be popularized and Dutch archaeologist A. Brandes and known around the world. Indonesian archaeologist F.A.Sutjipto In Europe, the Batik technique was believed that Batik is indigenous tradition ﬁrst described in the book “History of of Inddonessia, because regions such as Java” (published in London in 1817) by Sir Toraja, Flores, Halmahera and Papua, Thomas Stamford Raﬄes, Former Governor Although not inﬂuenced by India, retains of the British Islands. In 1873, Dutch the tradition of making ancient Batik. merchant Van Rijckevorsel gave the items Not only conﬁrming Indonesia’s he collected when he arrived in Indonesia Batik technique is imported from outside, for the Museum of Ethnology in Rotterdam. G.P.Rouﬀaer also said that the kawung Today, the Trope Museum (Tropemuseum) pattern was known in the twelfth century is the largest collection of Batik Indônêssia in Kendiri, East Java. He thinks these in the Netherlands. Not only introduced delicate kawung patterns are made only of and promoted, the Dutch also did a lot of the canting tool (a small copper container work to promote the development of Batik for hot wax with a long, slender nozzle that in colonial Indonesia, as they introduced looks like a pen with an ink cartridge on the into this craft new European fabric printing body of the pen). According to Rouﬀaer, techniques. So that, starting from the the details carved on the clothes of the early nineteenth century, a new Batik art Prajnaparamita statue (Mahāsthāmaprāpta) developed more subtle and reached heyday. of East Java in the thirteenth century were The exhibition at the Universelle exhibition similar to the traditional Batik Java patterns in Paris in the ﬁrst year of the twentieth today. From these bases, he argued that century (1900) made Batik famous and canting, the tool used to wax the fabric of impressed the public and artists in Europe. traditional Batik Indonesia, appeared in In the 1920s, Indonesian immigrants to Java in the thirteenth century or earlier. Malaysia brought Batik technology to this Thus, at least since the thirteenth country. In the 1970s, Batik was introduced century, Batik was not only a popular textile to Australian Aborigines. Unexpectedly, item on the island of Java, but also used to the Aboriginal people quickly accepted make various types of clothes for the court and developed Batik technology into their and the people. The historical documents craft. And, now, the profession of making say, in the seventeenth century, the Islamic Batik and wearing Batik clothes has become State (Sultanate) Mataram on Java island popular and popular not only in Indonesia, has given the important ritual function for but also in Malaysia and Brunei.
Nghiên cứu trao đổi ● Research-Exchange of opinion 3 Although the process of making paints a picture, to have a Batik canvas, one Batik-style fabric may have appeared and (the woman and the supporting men) must exists in some parts of the world, however, constantly perform many diﬀerent creative according to experts, Batik Indonesia is still and labor intensive stages. First, the pattern unique and not a type Batik anywhere else must be painted by an artist using a pencil to can be compared. The beauty and quality draw detail on the fabric surface. Afterwards, of Indonesian Batik is a gift of patience the female artisans used a bronze canting and creativity of the woman of Java, pen to paint and wax hot lines or unprinted especially in the city center in Yogyakarta, patches of the fabric. Then, the cloth is put Solo, Cirebon, Pekalongan and Indramayu. into a big box to dye. With the action of Batik’s reputation also belongs to Java men hot water, the wax will melt and keep the involved in a number of manufacturing underlying fabric still white and not dyed processes such as fabric preparation, fabric like the non-waxed fabric. After this ﬁrst dyeing, drying and storage… dyeing, the lines and decorations of the Batik, as assessed, is ﬁnest textiles of fabric needing to be kept will be painted Indonesia country, because the art is like a by the artist using a canting pen and waxed “draw” or “paint” onto the fabric. Instead before being dyed the second time. So, the of using pencil or brush, Batik artisans process of painting - waxing and staining used “pen” brass called canting and wax continues a few more times until the pattern liquid used instead of paint. Just as a painter is clearly visible on the new fabric. From hand drawing to mold printing From the middle of the nineteenth than spending a lot of time drawing and century, especially since the beginning of painting as using canting. Although the use the twentieth century, the appearance of of the cap printing technique has made the copper and wooden printing plates (cap) has Batik job simpler and more productive than revolutionized Indonesia’s Batik production. traditional canting techniques. However, so Cap is a block of copper or maybe wooden far, in addition to mass production of Batik made of stripes about 1.5cm wide attached cap products, Java workers have maintained to a pattern. Therefore, depending on the and developed the Batik canting line, nature of each pattern, the shape and size of commonly known as Batik tulis. And, so far, the cap are diﬀerent (sometimes, there are Indonesians as well as tourists to Indonesia large cap with a diameter up to 24cm). To still wish to have Batik tulis garments, even create the pattern, the worker just dipped though a Batik tulis can cost hundreds, even the cap into hot wax and then printed the a thousand times more than the same size wax pattern directly on the canvas, rather Batik cap fabric.
4 Nghiên cứu trao đổi ● Research-Exchange of opinion Traditional and modern patterns The traditional wax used by the crimson (often called menkuda) made Indonesians is a compound of beeswax and from morinda citrifolia leaves. From paraﬃn oil with a ratio of 60% wax and these three basic colors, Indonesian 40% oil. In this compound, beeswax and craftsmen also mixed the colors together ﬂexible are used to stop the penetration of to create other colors: soga brown mixed color and no cracks; paraﬃn oil is brittle with indigo will be dark blue; Indigo blue and easy to crack, so the color can seep mixed with red will be purple… Then, into these cracks. Therefore, the cracking experienced workers can also create of colors on the fabric surface is the most diﬀerent shades of each color by adjusting typical impression of Batik Indonesia. the immersion time and soaking the cloth in dyed water. In addition, in special Batik’s traditional colors are not cases, such as the order of the rich and numerous and are all made from natural powerful classes (ancient kings, oﬃcials substances. The oldest of the traditional colors is indigo, made from indigofera today ...), people also used gold thread or leaves. By adding some substances to gold dust to color on the Batik cloth. This indigofera water or by extending or special Batik is called Prada (gold cloth). shortening the time to soak and dye the To attach gold threads or gold dust to the fabric, diﬀerent dark, light indigo colors fabric, a special glue is made by mixing will be created. The second traditional chicken egg white or linseed oil with a color of Batik is brown, also known yellow soil. Thanks to this glue, gold as soga color (with the color from light threads and gold dust are held so tightly yellow to dark brown) made from soga and so ﬁrmly into the fabric that they do tree bark). The third traditional color is not peel oﬀ after washing times. Traditional and modern Batik costumes
Nghiên cứu trao đổi ● Research-Exchange of opinion 5 All of the above exquisite and natural India, Persia and the West, such as lotus techniques and materials are ingeniously ﬂowers, Naga snakes, palm leaves, lilacs, and creatively used by artisans to “draw” peacocks… was also drawn or printed on or “paint” on the canvas thousands Batik by Java artisans. of Brilliant, splendid and symbolic Although very diverse in genres decorative patterns. However, the strange and themes, but, looking at the patterns, thing is, thousands of diﬀerent patterns of Indonesian people immediately realized Batik are created or metamorphosed from the origin of each Batik fabric. That is the a number of Basic traditional decoration unifying characteristic in the diversity of patterns. According to the researchers, the Batik art. Although traditional Javanese oldest (possibly dating from the thirteenth patterns are still drawn and printed, only on century) and also the most traditional is the the Batik fabrics of the Solo Center, which Kawung patterns made up of intersecting is located in the traditional Indo-Java circles. By combining diﬀerent big and cultural area, are there patterns showing small circles cut into each other, hundreds Sawat crown) symbolizes authority, Meru of vivid geometric patterns have appeared (god mountain) symbolizes mountain on diﬀerent Batik cloth. The second and land, Naga (snake god) symbolizes original traditional patterns called Cerlok water, Burung symbolizes wind and the includes all geometric patterns made from world above and Lidad Api symbolizes squares, circles, rhombus, stars… These ﬁre. In contrast to Solo, in Yogyakarta, geometries can work together to create Batik’s pattern is strongly inclined to stylized ﬂowers, ﬂower buds, beads, even large geometric patterns. Meanwhile, animals. The traditional quartet patterns in Pekalongan, which used to be the called parang is composed of slanted center of the Dutch residence, on Batik, rows of thick knife-like shapes running in appeared many European-origin patterns, parallel diagonal strips. Usually, parangs such as grapes and daisies… In the ﬁshing are placed alternately with narrow dark villages of Indramayu on the north bank bands of contrast. At one time, the parang of Java, the wives of ﬁshermen specialize patterns was a privilege used in the royal in producing cheap, simple Batik cloths courts of Java kings. By far, parangs are the with large patterns showing local plants most popular geometry project in Batik. By and ﬂowers. parallel and repeated layout, parangs have While still closely connected with an important role to create solemnity and tradition, today in Indonesia, Batik nobleminded for Batik decoration. From manufacturers tend to listen and follow these three basic traditional patterns, Java designers rather than traditional workers. craftsmen have created on Batik fabrics To cater to the needs and interests of thousands of diﬀerent patterns of diﬀerent modern society, people have not only genres, such as geometric patterns, plant added new patterns of ﬂowers, birds, but and bird patterns, humanoid pattern… also used chemical colors to dye cloth. Not In addition, in the process of cultural only in domestic and regional markets, exchange, many patterns originated from Indonesian fashion designers, like Iwan
6 Nghiên cứu trao đổi ● Research-Exchange of opinion Tirta, have boldly put Batik on the world Subsequently, the Batik tradition has fashion stage. Now, in addition to sewing become the cultural symbol of the nation’s traditional and modern costumes, Batik largest island nation, and is registered as the representative intangible cultural fabric is also used for interior decoration, heritage of humanity./. table cloths, and curtains… There are even artists who create paintings on canvas References: using Batik technology (Batik paintings). [1]. Kieu Duong (2019), Making batik- making craft hundreds of years old. South Thus, although there is no ancient China Morning Post origin and not the center of this real art form, Batik Indonesia products [2]. Hoang Thien Nga (2019), Experience Vietnamese Brocade and Batik culture of are unique in magniﬁcence and form, Indonesia, Tien Phong Newspaper, Central richness and diversity, exquisitely and Agency of Ho Chi Minh Communist Youth delicately of color quality and decorative Union patterns. Due to these unique qualities [3]. “Indonesian Batik”. UNESCO. Accessed and cultural values, during the over October 21, 2019. eight hundred years of ups and downs of history, Indonesia’s Batik tradition Author address: Vietnam Academy of Social Sciences still exists and develops, not to fade or decline. Moreover, from several Email: ngovandoanh@gmail.com traditional villages, over time, Batik has grown into major production centers.