Từ “ly trà liên lục địa” nghĩ về “tiêu dùng toàn cầu” thế kỷ XVII-XVIII

Tir "LY T R A L I E N L U C DIA" NGHI Vfe<br /> "TIEU DUNG TOAN cXu" THE KY XVII-XVIII<br /> <br /> <br /> H O A N G ANH TUXN'<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Mdt chidu mfla ddng Ignh gifi cufli thd hp cfi thd try dfldc ngfly lao dfing trung<br /> ky XVIII, ngfldi bdi bfln tgi qu&n bar d binh 14 gid ddng hd. Vfi khfing phai khfing<br /> Thflnh phd cdng nghidp Manchester (Anh) cd ly khi ngfldi ta v i n vf von r i n g nhflng<br /> dfla Iy trfl ndng eho anh cfing nhfln d§t mdi "ly trfi lign lyc dia" da gdp p h i n nfing budc<br /> mfit, hufing theo ldi bfing dda: "hay udng cudc each mang cfing nghifip d Anh vfi Tfiy<br /> cgn ngudn nfing Ifldng dfldc hfii ty tfl 4 Au gifla thdky XVIH!<br /> ch&u luc, hdi anh ban tre!" Vdi ngudi udng Nhflng khfing phai ddn tfin cufli thd ky<br /> trfl thd ky XXI, dfiy ddn t h u i n Ifl mfit ldi XVIII khi cufic Cach mang Cdng nghifip d<br /> tfln tung hoa my. Tuy nhifin, vdi ngfldi Anh vfi Tfiy Au bdng nd thi nhflng mflt<br /> cdng n h a n Thflnh phd Manchester (eung hfing tifiu dflng thfldng nhflt nhU chfi (cung<br /> nhfl hfing trifiu ddng nghifip khae cua anh nhfl cfl phfi, ca cao), dfldng vfl cflc loai hflng<br /> tgi cac thanh phd cdng nghifip Anh vfl T&y hfia tifiu ddng khfic cd ngudn gdc ngoai<br /> Au thdi ky dd), cd le khdng khfi d l anh ta chau Au mdi dfldc ngfldi phfldng Tay bitft<br /> mim cUdi t&n tyng r i n g minh thflc sy ddn vfl tifiu thy hang ngfly. Mupn nhfl't Ifl<br /> dang c i n ngudn nflng Ifldng tdng hdp eua tfl d i u thd ky XVII, cac san phlm che, cfl<br /> 4 chau Iyc dd tidp tye nhflng gid Ifim vifie phg, dydng... da dflpc c&c nhdm thfldng<br /> dfli dflng dflng sau dd. "Ly trfi lifin lyc dia" nh&n vfi cac Cdng ty Dfing An dfla vd chau<br /> gdm cd che bdp cua chau A (Cfing ty Dfing Au (1). Tuy nhign, trong thdi gian diu, eflc<br /> An dfla ve tfl Trung Qutfc hoflc Ceylon) san phtfm trfin chua dfldc tifiu thy rpng rai<br /> vfi ehi thuc sU phd bidn tfl khoang cuoi thd<br /> dfldc pha trong cdc sfl chfiu Au (afl delft<br /> ky XVII do thi hidu tifiu dflng thay ddi cung<br /> cua Hfl Lan hofic do afl nfldc Anh), nfim<br /> nhu do su phd bidn eua hflng hda tren thi<br /> thgm vai thia dudng Nam My (nhUng do<br /> trUdng vfl gifl ea phai chflng. Sy phat trien<br /> nfi Ifi ehfiu Phi aan xufl't d mien Tfiy An).<br /> cua vfln hfia tigu diing blnh dan la mfit<br /> Ddi vdi mdi ngfldi cdng nhfin Manchester<br /> dilm nhtfn trong bflc tranh tofin clu hfia<br /> cuoi thd ky XVIII, ly trfl khdng ddn t h u i n<br /> giai dogn ctfn dai sd ky, bfin cgnh nhflng<br /> Ifl khoanh k h i c thfl gian, mfl trfin htft nfi<br /> didm nhfi'n khac se Iln lUpt dUde thao lufin<br /> bd sung cho hp nflng Ifldng {calories tfl trong c&c chuyfin lufin titfp theo (2).<br /> dfldng) vfi sy tinh t&o {caffeine td chfi) d l<br /> <br /> • TS. Khoa Lich sfl - TrUdng Dai hoc KHXH&NV- DHQGHN<br />  Rghian eihi L|ch sJr, stf 11.2012<br /> <br /> 2. Mfic dd cflc thd lyc thfldng mgi vfi hflng hda cua hai logi d6 utfng nfly v i n chi<br /> hfing h i i ch&u Au dfi cd t h l titfp ctfn dfldc chidm khfing qu& 4,1% tdng gi& trf thUdng<br /> c&c logi dfi udng phfldng Dfing ndi trfin tfl phtfm b&n dtfu gifl ciia VOC (4). Dfic bi$t,<br /> d i u thd ky XVI (Bfi Dflo Nha vfl Tfly Ban c&c logi dd udng trfin cfing mdi phd bitfn d<br /> Nha) qua thd ky XVII (Anh, Hfl Lan, nhflng thflnh phtf Idn vfl khu v^c thUdng<br /> Ph&p), chfi, cfl phg, dfldng chfla trd nfin phd mgi, hflng h i i ph&t triln. M$t nghifin cdu<br /> bidn ngay trong hai thtf ky nfly. Trong etf dilm cua Hans van Koolbergen vl trfldng<br /> c&c thfldng phtfm tgo nfin "ly trfl lifin lyc hi^p tifiu ddng cua cU d&n thf trtfn cfing<br /> dja", dudng dU0c ngfldi ch&u Au bitft td thfldng nghidp Weeap (khoing 15km vl<br /> trfldc khi cd c&c ph&t kitfn dja ly vfl thUdng phfa t&y b i c cua Thu dfi Amsterdam,<br /> mgi lifin lyc dja vdi T&y An vfl Dfing An k l chuyfin s i n xutft bia, rUpu vfl vli) eho thtfy,<br /> tfl nfim 1500. Vi ngpt cua dUdng htfp d i n ddn ttfn nflm 1700, khoang 2.500 cU d&n ndi<br /> gidi quy t ^ chfiu Au nhifng sy khan hitfm dfly chfla bidt ddn chfi vfl efi phfi (5).<br /> cua dudng khitfn gidi tifiu ddng blnh d&n ft<br /> 3. Tix khoing thtfp nifin thfl hai cua thtf<br /> cfi CO hi^i tidp c&n. Dfldng dU0c quan nidm<br /> ky XVIII, chfi vfl cfl phfi b i t d i u dfldc tifiu<br /> nhu mtft logi dupc li$u hoflc thufle bd dfldng<br /> thy r^ng rfli d cflc nUdc ch&u Au vfi nhanh<br /> hdn Ifl hfing tifiu ddng hflng ngfly. Chfi vfl<br /> chdng trd thfinh thj hitfu tifiu ddng cua<br /> cfl phfi cung dflpe nhin nhtfn theo cflch<br /> ngfldi dfin chfiu Au. Theo quan s&t cua m$t<br /> tfldng ty. 6 Lufin Dfin, Cdng ty Ddng An<br /> ngfldi Anh vflo nfim 1731, sd Iflyng ngudi<br /> Anh (EIC) gidi thifiu chfi vfi cfl phfi ddn<br /> tifiu ddng dd utfng (hflng tifiu diing ndi<br /> ngfldi tifiu dflng Ang-Ifi td khfl adm nhflng<br /> chung) cd ngudn gflc phfldng Dong d nflfic<br /> cung phai ddn khi Cdng ty eai td vfi phfit<br /> Anh "khfing cdn Ifl hflng trflm, hflng ngfln,<br /> triln mgnh n l n mfiu dich vdi phfldng Dflng<br /> hay trflm ngfln nda mfl da Ifin dtfn con sd<br /> tfl d i u t h d k y XVIII, chfi vfl cfl phe mdi phtf<br /> hflng tritfu". Rfi rflng Ifl vific EIC dilu chinh<br /> bidn rpng rai (3).<br /> chidn lupc thfldng phtfm nhfip khiu td<br /> Tfldng tfl, khi dfldc Cfing ty Dfing An Hfl phfldng Dong (trong dd cd vific phfit triln<br /> Lan (VGC) dfla vd Amaterdam vflo khoing ndn mtfu djeh ehfl Trung Quflc) da gfip phin<br /> thfip nign 20 eua thd ky XVII, hai logi dd md rtfng t h | hitfu tifiu dflng cua ngfldi Anh.<br /> udng tren luc d i u cdn rfl't xa la vdi ngUdi Gifl ea dupe phfln logi theo chtft Ifl^g vfi<br /> tieu ddng. Vfl cung nhU dUdng, cfl phfi vfl nhfl vfly hflng tri^u ngfldi thudc t i n g Ifip<br /> chfi dupe coi Ifl dupe li$u nfin ehu ydu dU0c trung hfu trd xutfng cd thd titfp cfin dflpc c&c<br /> bfly b&n vdi stf luong han ehd tai cflc hi$u loai san phtfm chtft lfldng trung binh nhflng<br /> thudc. Mfii den nfim 1661/1662, phifin dfi'u cfi gifl ea phai ehflng. Ttf khoang thdp nifin<br /> gi& chg vfi cfi phg d i u tifin mdi dU0c VOC td 30 cua thtf ky XVIII trd di, chfi, dudng vfl<br /> chflc; stf luyng v i n hdt sflc hgn chtf (vflo thudc lfi Ifl nhdng nhQng hflng tifiu ddng<br /> cudi thfip nign 1660 v i n chi chidm khoang blnh d&n phd bidn d Anh. N h i m d&p dng<br /> 0.03% tfi'ng gifi tri hfing dfl'u gifi cua VOC). nhu c l u tigu thy ngfiy efing Ifin cao d trong<br /> Kristof Glamann cho r i n g phai dtfn khoang nfldc, EIC da tflng eUdng nhfip khtfu c&c<br /> thfip nifin cufii cua thtf ky XVII, c&c cutfc mtft hflng nfly tH phfldng Dfing. Theo dfi, U<br /> b&n dtfu gia chg vfl cfl phfi cua VOC mdi trd ltf hflng tigu ddng phUdng Dflng dfldc EIC<br /> nhtfp khtfu vd Anh tflng tH 16,9% vfio nfim<br /> nen rpng rai vfl b i t d i u giflnh dfldc sy quan<br /> 1700 Ifin 34,9% vflo nflm 1800 (6).<br /> tfim cua gidi thfldng lfii. Tuy nhifin, trj gifl<br /> Tid "ly tra Man lyc dia" nghl v&..<br /> <br /> O mdt sd qude gia Tay Au khae, sy phd Lan Ida ehpn phfldng phflp gifin titfp b i n g<br /> bidn eua cfic logi dd utfng trfin eung nd r0 tfl c6ch thu hdt thuyin mflnh Trung Qude<br /> d i u thd ky XVIII. Trfii vdi sy xa la kfio dfli mang hfing xudng Batavia - ndi ngudi Hfl<br /> ddn CUOI thd ky XVH, chi khoang 3 th^p ky Lan dS dflng thu mua d l chuyin vd Hfi Lan<br /> sau, chfi, cfl phfi vfl dudng dupc ghi chfip (10). Dfi'i lgi sy ti$n lgi trfin, Cfing ty Hfi<br /> g i n nhfl trong 100% danh myc hflng tifiu Lan phai tra thfim gifl thu mua trong khi<br /> ddng hflng ngfiy eua ngfldi dfin Thj trtfn gifi bfin d Hfl Lan cGng thudng thtfp hdn do<br /> Weesp d mgn tfiy bie Thu dfi Amsterdam chtft lUi^ng ehfi dfla dtfn Batavia khd dupc<br /> (7). Tuong ty, tai Thflnh phtf cang Antwerp tinh tuydn, ehUa kd chflng dudng vdng qua<br /> (Bi), sdlUpng hp tieu thy chfi da tfing ngogn Batavia da kfio dfli thgm thdi gian vfin<br /> muc tfl 0% nflm 1700 Ifin tUdng dng 60% vfl ehuyin vfi vide btfc dd hfing hda Ifin xudng<br /> 100% (tdy vflo quy mfi cua hO) nflm 1730. nhidu Iln ciing khidn chfi dd bj vyn nfit...<br /> Cfl phfi duyc ngfldi d&n Antwerp thfldng (11). Vi§c VOC phai bfin chfi vdi gifi thtfp<br /> ngogn mutfn hdn, nhflng dtfn khoang nflm hon d thj trudng Hfl Lan (so vdi EIC d Anh)<br /> 1780 so luyng ngudi udng cfl phe vfl chfi dfl vfi tinh lgi gfip p h i n cd xdy cho vfln hda<br /> phd bidn ddn mfle ngfldi ta cfi t h l thfl'y c&e tifiu dflng d vfldng qutfc cfii xay gid: logi chfi<br /> bfi do udng trfl vfi cfi phfi cd mfit "gin nhfl bohea (dgng nhfl chfi bom cd chfl't lUpng<br /> k h i p mpi gia ifinh". Danh myc quan ly mfln thtfp nhfi't) dU(?c ngfldi bfin rong dly xe cut<br /> bfli dfing ky mdi cua thfinh phd cung cho kft ban dgo ngofli dfldng phd Amsterdam,<br /> thtfy mdt bflc tranh hdt sflc sinh ddng; vfly nfin ke ca nhflng ngUdi nghfio khfing<br /> khoang 5-10% sd lUpng quiy dflng ky kinh mua ndi chfi vfi bd dd trfl cung cd cd hdi<br /> doanh mdi n h i m vfio chfi vfi cfl phfi (8). Tai thudng thde nhflng ly trfl bfln rong trgn<br /> nhdng thflnh phtf ldn Iuc dd nhU phd.<br /> Amsterdam, Rotterdam (Hfl Lan), Paris, Vfly bao nhigu chfi vfl cfl phfi da dUde<br /> Marseille (Phflp), Lisbon (Bd Dflo Nha)... nhfip khtfu vflo ehfiu Au trong cac thd ky<br /> thdi quen sd dyng eac dd utfng chda XVn-XVm? Met udc tfnh trfin cd ad nhdng<br /> caffeine nhU chfi vfi efl phfi (ciing nhU ca nghign cflu djnh Ifldng tfl so aflch cua cfic<br /> cao) ngfiy cfing trd nfin thflng dyng hdn. Cfing ty Dfing An chflu Au nhfl Hfi Lan,<br /> Theo thong kfi cua Anne McCants, vflo gifla Anh (vfl mpt chiKng myc nflo dd Ifi Ph&p,<br /> thd ky XVIII, flde tfnh trung binh 60% Dan Mach, Thyy Diln) cho thtfy trong c&c<br /> ngfldi dan Amsterdam sfl dyng chfi vfi/hofie giai doan 1719-1725 vfl 1749-1755, san<br /> efl phfi hang ngfly (9). Ifldng nhfip khtfu chfi cua cfie cfing ty lufin<br /> 4. Sfl tflng ti-udng eua nhu elu tifiu dung tfing trung binh 6,65% mdi nftm, cfing vdi<br /> d Tfiy Au dUdng nhifin dfla trfin cd sd eua afl tdng mflc d i u tfl tfing ddu dfin hfing nflm<br /> cung flng ddu dan vfi ngfly mfit tfing trfldng khoang 1,92%. Theo dfi, ddn khoang thflp<br /> cua hang hda tfl phUdng Ddng. Theo Udc nifin 80 eua thd ky XVHI, lfldng chfi nhflp<br /> dofln eua gidi nghifin cdu lich afl thUdng khtfu vflo chfiu Au da Ifin ddn khoang 9,4<br /> mgi A - Au cfin dai sd ky, phtfn da sd chfi trifiu c&n (12). Didn trinh eua efi phfi trong<br /> lufin chuydn v l tifiu ddng d chau Au thd ky vfln hda tifiu ddng ch&u Au khfing cfi ve lfi<br /> XVIII c6 ngudn gdc Trung Qude. Trong khi ngogi 1$. K l tfl khi ngudi tifiu ddng ch&u<br /> thfldng nhan Anh thidt Ifip clu bufln ban Au b i t d i u quan t&m dtfn cfl phfi, cac Cfing<br /> tnie tiep d Quang Chau (Canton) d l thu ty EIC vfl VOC ngay Ifip tflc cd chitfn hitfc<br /> mua chfi eho thi trUdng Anh quoc, ngifdi Hfi kinh doanh mdi. Ngofli vific duy tri eac<br />  Bflhito eihi L|ch ailr. s611.81118<br /> <br /> B&ng 1: N h f p k h i u vk t&i xuSTt k h i u ck phS A Anh t h S ky X V i n<br /> Ddn vj tlnh: Cwl 112 lbs (tuong dudng 60,80 kg)<br /> <br /> 1699-1701 1722-1724 1749-1761 1772-1774<br /> Nh|kp k h £ u<br /> Levant 2.594 671 2<br /> Ddng An i.sas 17.B71 ;<br /> 9.913 3.168<br /> Tdy An 0 0 271 69.868<br /> Nai khdc 20 0 0 0<br /> Tdng nh$p 4,202 18.142 10.186 63.028<br /> T&i xu£t k h i u<br /> Diic 33 9.931 3.439 42.688<br /> HdLan 287 0 313 14.398<br /> NamAu 0 0 630 4.188<br /> Ai-ten 20 0 269 3.861<br /> Nai khdc 1 0 699 3.096<br /> Tong t4i xuft 341 9.931 6.260 68.121"<br /> <br /> Ngudn: Din Ihco: S.D. Smith. "Accounting for Taste; British CoFTce Consumption in Histoiical Perapeclive", The<br /> Journal of Interdisciplinary Hillary, Vol. 27, No. 2, 1996. p (183-214), 183.<br /> Chi3 giii:'"': Tdng liTijng t&i xutft giai doan 1772-1774 CBO hem tdng nhtfp khilu do liudc dd cd mdt lupng hat ci pbtf<br /> duoc giit lai d^ u nhim tang chtft lu^ng htfng ttfi xutft.<br /> <br /> thudng di^m b Yemen hay An D9 dd thu khfing qua 2, 3 guilder/pond (15). Tfldng ti^<br /> mua ck phe dem v6 chflu Au, ngUdi Anh \k gifi c& p h i d H& Lan cflng svit giam nhanh<br /> H& Lan con triln khai nhting dU an trfing chdng sau khi Cdng ty Ddng An H& Lan<br /> ti:ot quy mo ng&y cing ldn vong quanh th^ t h i l t l$p dflt^ h$ thfi'ng trfing trot cfldng<br /> gidi: ngudi Hk Lan ph&t triln di§n tfeh bflc d Java (Indonesia) tfl sau nftm 1711.<br /> trong cli phe ctidng bflc cl dao Java Theo bang gift n i l m y i t trdn t h | trfldng<br /> (Indonesia) v&o n&m 1707 v& eau d6 b Amsterdam, gi& c& p h i da giam tdi 84%<br /> Suriname (Nam My); ngucli Anh trfing c& trong vdng nfla dfiu t h l ky XVHI v& tilp<br /> phe 6 Jamaica v& Montserrat n i m 1728 tyc giam nh^ cho d i n cufii t h l ky XVIII<br /> (tnldc va sau d6 ngucli Ph6p cung td chflc trong khi gi& Ifldng tht^c v& tht^c phlm g&n<br /> trfing c& phe cl R&union nftm 1715, ngUcli Bfi nhfl khdng dao dfing. d Lufin Ddn v& nfldc<br /> D&o Nha trong c& ph§ cl Brazil nflm 1732 Anh ndi chung, xu hfldng gi& c& p h i cung<br /> v& ngfldi Tay Ban Nha trfing c& p h i 6 Cuba diln ra tfldng tt;! tfl khoang th&p niln 30<br /> nSm 1748...) (13). Vi$c ngUcli chSu Au chu cua t h l ky XVIII, duy tri d mflc giam deu<br /> d6ng trong vi$c san xu&t c& phfi cho thfi'y h&ng nfim 0,58% (dSi vdi c& p h i Java) vi<br /> san lfldng c& p h i dfla v l ti§u tht^ tgii chftu 0,83% (dffl vdi c& p h i Mocha) trong suit<br /> Au tfl n i a d&u t h l ky XVIII liln tijc tSng giai dofin 1750-1799 (16). Nhflng da ki|n<br /> (14). trdn cho phdp suy lu^n r&ng chd v& c& phe<br /> Cflng vdi xu t h l mS r9ng thj trflclng cung chftc chftn da dfltjc chuyin chd v l chfiu Au<br /> ting, gi& ban c&c h&ng h6a t r i n d chfiu Au mfit c&ch thudng xuyen v& vdi s l Ifldng<br /> cung ng&y mpt h?t. V&o cuoi t h l ky XVII, ng&y mfit tSng trong s u i t t h l ky XVIII; gia<br /> gia chl d Rotterdam vSn cdn dflng d mflc b&n ciia c&c san p h l m n&y d ch&u Au ciing<br /> trung binh 80 guilder/pond trong khi din liln tvic giam. H i ^ tfldng cac san ph&m<br /> th&p n i l n 20 cua t h l ky XVIII chi con dflt^ tfii x u i t sang cfic thi trfldng kh&c cung<br />  TO l y fra nan lue dia" nghl v^...<br /> <br /> <br /> B i l u dfi 1: NhJlp k h i u cua VOC tfl ch&u A v l H& Lan t h l ky XVIII<br /> Ddn vi tinh: guilder Uk Lan<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [—•—Ch* —•—CiphI — D^ni 1<br /> 3500000<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Z500000<br /> <br /> 2000000<br /> <br /> 1500000'<br /> <br /> lODOOOO<br /> <br /> 500000<br /> g \ m^^^<br /> m1-1713 1730-1731 17S1-17S3 1771-1773 178M790<br /> <br /> • » ' • Cht 17800 1BD7D0 1002600<br /> <br /> —•—ClpU ITBOM ttSMD U170a 516700 seimo<br /> D»ins iS3saa 33tl00 suoo S5900 90900<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Ngufin: Bi^u 66 diroc Iflp trtn ca sd iham kh^o King lirong h^g h6a VOC nhap khdu tir chflu A v£ H^ Lan XhS ky<br /> XVm ciia Els M. Jacobs. Koopman in AziS: De handel \van de Vennigde Oost-Indische Compagnte lijdens de 18de<br /> eeuw (ZuijAcn: Walburg Pcrs. 2000). Table 35.<br /> the hifin ra't ro, nhtft lfi td nhdng trung tfim Francois Valentijn (hoe gia, chinh tri gia,<br /> thuong mgi Idn nhU Luan Dfin, nhfi khoa hgc tu nhien Hfl Lan, 1666-1727)<br /> Amsterdam, Rotterdam... dtfn cac khu vuc viet vfio nflm 1726 rfing "efi phe da trd nen<br /> khfic cua chau Au nhU Ddc, Ai-len, cac thfing dung d dfl't nudc nfly den nfii h i u gai<br /> nude luc dia Tfiy Au vfl Nam Au... Hifin vfl nhdng ngUdi may va khfi long xau dUOc<br /> thuc dfi gdp p h i n dua dtfn sU dinh hinh vfln chi qua lo kim ntfu khfing ud'ng cfl phfi moi<br /> hda tifiu ddng binh dfin dfii vdi trfi vfi cfi bud'i sfing", Nijboer vfi Van Tilburg cho<br /> phfi d chau Au thtf ky XVIII. ring: "td nda cufii thtf ky XVIII, cfi phfi da<br /> 5. Cflu hdi dfit ra la doi tUdng nfio trong trd thfinh 'do utfng hang ngfi/ cho 'cae cdng<br /> cfing dfing ngUdi Tay Au the' ky XVIII da ddng ngudi rong ldn' d Hfi Lan, ke ca ngUdi<br /> tifiu thu khoi lUdng do uong khong lfi trfin? gifiu cd vfl gidi binh dan" (18). NhQng<br /> Trai vdi quan difim cua cac lufln thuytft gia nghifin cdu difim cua A. McCants dtfl vdi<br /> ve "hfi thfi'ng the gidi" vfl cac sd gia kinh ttf cae ho tifiu ddng d Thanh pho Amsterdam<br /> tan CO difin (von cd Ichuynh hufing hg thfi'p eho thfl'y r i n g chfi vfl cfl phfi dfi trcf thfinh<br /> y nghia kinh ttf cua hfi thtfng thUdng mgi do uong thfing dung cua ngUdi Hfl Lan<br /> thtf gidi giai dogn cfln dai sd ky vfi cho r i n g (tUdng tu nhu nhieu nUdc nude Tay Au<br /> chi stf it gidi thUdng lUu giflu c6 tifiu ddng khac thdi ditfm dd) dtfn mde nhdng ngUdi<br /> xa xi phtfm phUOng Dfing), (17) nhdng phyc dich (hiu gai, thd may...) eung ed thtf<br /> nghifin cdu mang quan ditfm tofln clu lu^n tifiu ddng hflng ngfiy tgi gia dinh, khdng<br /> gin d&y k h i n g dinh r i n g dgi bd phfln dfin phfln bifit d i n g cfl'p, sang hfin; lUdng nhflp<br /> chdng chau Au da thUc sU tifiu dung hfing khtfu ngay cflng tflng trong khi gia ban<br /> hda phuong Dfing, nhtft Ifl td nhdng thflp ngfly cfing hg tgo ditfu kifin de gidi tifiu<br /> ^ M d i u cua thtf ky XVIII. D i n ldi ddng binh dan titfp cfln dU0e efie loai dfi<br />  Rghian cOru L|ch aiJr. atf 11.2018<br /> <br /> utfng chda caffeine nfii trfin (19). d mtft hpp vdi nhau mtft cflch d l y ehu y, nhtft Ifl<br /> qufic gia chfiu Au khflc Ifl Tfiy Ban Nha, Ifln trong bfii c i n h dvtbng dUpc svt dung ngfly<br /> Bdng tifiu ddng tofin elu edng diSn ra m^t m{kt r$ng rfii trong tifiu ddng hflng ngfly, dl<br /> cfich tUdng td- Trfl vfl efl phfi (tUdng td nhU trd thflnh nfit vfln hda tfm thdc d chfiu Au.<br /> vi§c ca cao trd thflnh dfi utfng thfing dyng Trd lgi phitfm truyOn "ly trfl lifin lyc dja",<br /> td cfie thtf ky XVI-XVID dfl trd nfin htft aCte ngofli y nghia Ifl dd utfng thudng nhfit, si;<br /> thdng d\ing d d&y td d i u thtf ky XVIII. Stf ktft hpp cua dudng vflo dtf utfng (tUdng td<br /> litfu thtfng kfi cho thfi'y, dtfn cufii thtf ky nfiy, vi$c dudng dupc ddng ngfly m$t phtf bitfn)<br /> cfic qufin cfl phfi da mpc Ifin ci h i u k h i p mpi cdn mang m^t y nghta Ijch stt hon. Ngudi<br /> gfic phtf d Thu dfi Madrid. Vflo thflp nifin tifiu ddng chfiu Au hitfu rtft rfi vtf nguin<br /> 17708, Conde de Camporaanes (hpc gii, calorie mfl dudng mang dtfn cho ed t h l vfl<br /> ngudi phfit ngfin, chfnh tri gia ntfi titfng tflc dyng cua nd dtfn nflng sutft lao dfing.<br /> ngudi Tfiy Ban Nha, 1723-1802) thflm chl Ntfu nhu dtfn giQa thtf ky XVII dudng vin<br /> cdn dtf xufl't quan dilm chfnh thdc r i n g vi$c cdn xa xi vdi gidi tifiu ddng blnh dfin, thl td<br /> xfic Ifip tfip qufln utfng trfl vfi cfl phfi trong d i u thtf ky XVIII dudng da trd nfin thfing<br /> bfla fln sflng (thay vi utfng ca cao nhU Idc dyng hdn trong ainh hogt hflng ngfiy d Tfiy<br /> dfi) sfi dUa Tfly Ban Nha dtfn mfit vi trf qu^ Au. Nghifin cdu djnh lupng cua McCants<br /> tpc hdn trong cfing dfing cflc dan toe d chfiu gpi y r i n g trong thtf ky XVIII ngudi Anh<br /> Au (20). dflnh khoang 2-3% ttfng chi phf tifiu ddng<br /> vflo dudng. O cfing dong cU dfin<br /> Khfing chi trd nfin thfing dyng d chflu<br /> Amsterdam, dfing gfip cua dUdng vflo ttfng<br /> Au, nhdng do uong mang tfnh tofln clu nfly<br /> Iupng calories cung tflng Ifin dflng k l trong<br /> cdn nhanh chdng lan tda dtfn nhiing khu<br /> thtf ky XVIII: 0,5-0.6% (khoang gifla thtf ky<br /> vUc khac nflm trong quy dao cua hfi thtfng<br /> XVII) len 0,9% (cufii thtf ky XVH), 2,1%<br /> thuong mai thtf gidi thdi ky nfiy. Ching<br /> (giai dogn 1720-1739), 3,4% (giai doan<br /> hgn: ntfu nhU trUde thfip nign 1790 cfic c0ng<br /> 1740-1759). 3,9% (giai dogn 1760-1779),<br /> dfing ngudi Nam My nhU Argentina,<br /> 4,3% (giai dogn 1780-1789) (22). NhU vfiy,<br /> Chile... vfln uong yerba mate (mfit logi dfi<br /> cd le khfing qufl cudng difiu khi ndi ring sd<br /> utfng nhu trfl, cd chda caffeine, thdng dyng<br /> tflng nhanh vtf lUpng dudng tifiu ddng fl<br /> d khu vue Nam My t r i i dfii td Argentia qua<br /> Tfiy Au td gifla thtf ky XVIII bfi' sung dfing<br /> Bolivia, nara Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay,<br /> ktf lupng calories cho ngUdi Iao dfing trong<br /> Chile...) thi td sau thdi ditfm nfiy, cfl phfi<br /> bfii eanh efich mgng efing nghifip bdng nd cf<br /> dUOc tifiu thu rpng rai. Dtfn thflp nien 1820,<br /> Anh vfl Tfly Au ndi chung (23).<br /> chi edn "thtf hfi cu" ngudi Chile uong yerba<br /> mate trong khi gidi thanh nien dfl hofln Vfi, tren htft, td vj trf Ifl nhflng dfi utfng<br /> tofin chuytfn sang uong trfi hoflc cfl phfi bdi d$c thd cua cflc khu vUc cy thi d phUdng<br /> hp coi yerba mate Ifi thd do utfng "khfing Dfing, trfl vfi cfi phfi (tUPng tu nhu ca cao<br /> vfin minh" (21). hay nhflng do tieu ddng khfic chUa cfi dip<br /> 6. Khdng khd de nhfin thfi'y f nghia "thdi dtf ctfp dtfn d dfiy nhu thufic la, vai lua, gtfm<br /> trang" vfi efing dung "nfing lUpng" eua cfic sut...) da trd thflnh nhflng hfing tifiu ddng<br /> logi do utfng trfin dUpc ngUdi Tfiy Au phfii tofln c l u t d thtf ky XVIII.<br /> TO 'ly Ira Uan lyc dta" ngM vi..<br /> <br /> CHU THtCH<br /> " Nghifin cdu nfly d a ^ tfli trfl b6i QuJ ph&t Nghiin cOu Lfch sii. stf 12-2009; Hoftng Anh Tutfn,<br /> triln Khoa h^c vfl Cfing ngh$ QuOc gia "Qude ttf hda ljch BiJl dfln t ^ i Tofln c l u hda cfln dgi<br /> (NAFOSTED) trong dfi tfli mfl etf IV3.2-2011.02. sd ky vfl ljch sd Viet Nam thtf ky X V i r , Nhilu tfic<br /> (1). M$t stf nghiSn cflu cho r i n g , trong thi;rc ttf, gifl, Di adn Ifch sit vA nhiing hitdng ti^p c^n mdi<br /> cfl phe da dUflc gifii thi$u dtfn chfiu Au til hflng thtf (Tu sflch khoa hpc xfl hfii • Chuydn k h i o v l Khflo<br /> ky tnrdc cflc phflt kitfn dja ly cutfi thtf ky XV. Xuft't ctf hpc vfl Ljch siji - do Vi$n Harvard Yenching, D9i<br /> phflt tit Etiopia, cfl phe du nhflp vflo thtf gidi k Rflp hpc Harvard, t&i tr^ xutft bfln), Nxb. Thtf Oidi, Hft<br /> khoang giila thtf ky XVI d l trd thflnh logi d l utfng N^i, 2011.<br /> phd bitfn cua ngUdi H6i giflo, sau d6 theo chfln cflc (3). Xem ching hgn: Carole Shammas, The Pre-<br /> nhfl du hflnh chflu Au chu du dtfn xfi sfi "nghin \h Industrial Consumer in England and America<br /> mOt dfim" d l v l Tfiy Au tiK khoang cutfi thtf ky XVI. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1990), p. 77.<br /> Khi cfic Cfing ty D6ng Xn Anh vfl Hfl Lan thitft Iflp (4). Kristof Glamann, Dutch-Asiatic Trade:<br /> cd sd budn bfln h Mokha (Yemen) d i u thtf ky XVII, 1620-1740 (Den Haag; Martinus Nijhoff, 1958), p.<br /> ho ciing t h a m gia budn bfln cfl phS nhOng chu y^u 13.<br /> kinh doanh tgi khu vyc Cfln Ddng vfl Nam A chiJt<br /> (5). Hans van Koolbergen, "De Materiete<br /> chUa dita vS chflu Au bdi io^i dd utfng nfly chUa<br /> Cultuur van Weeap en Weesperkarspel in de<br /> ditflc ngitdi Tfiy Au bitft dtfn r$ng rni.<br /> Zeventiende en Achttiende Eeuw," in A.<br /> Chd ciing dUflc ngudi chflu Au (trUdc htft Ifl cfic Schuurman, J. de Vriea, and A, van der Woude<br /> gi&o Sl dtfn Trung Qude) bitft d^n t^ khoang cuSi (eds), Aards Geluk: de Nederlandera en hun<br /> thtf ky XVI. D I u thtf ky XVII, cflc Cdng ty D6ng Xn Spullen van 1550 tot 1850 (Amsterdam: Balans,<br /> chfiu Au ciing budn bfln chfl d khu vyc Ddng A d l 1997), p. (121-159) 145.<br /> ki^m ldi vfl phai dtfn nflm 1610 thUdng nhfln Hfl<br /> (6). Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer, p.<br /> Lan mdi dita thd mdt lUflng ch^ nho v€ Amsterdam<br /> 77<br /> dl kilm tra thi tntdng tigu t h g nhitng khdng mang<br /> (7). Koolbergen, "De Materiele Cultuur van<br /> lai kg't qua kha quan. Ngofli hai dd utfng thong<br /> Weeap", p. 145.<br /> dgng Ifl ch^ vfl cfl phg, ca cao ciing dUflc quan tflm,<br /> dftc bi^t trong c^ng dong ngUdi Iberia k l tCt sau khi (8). Bruno Blonde and lija van Damme,<br /> Columbus tim dtfn Tfln Thtf gidi vfl ngiidi Tfty Ban "Consumer and Retail 'Revolutions': Perspectives<br /> Nha thitft Iflp anh hUdng d dfiy trong sutft thtf ky from a Declining Urban E ^ n o m y , Antwerp, 17th<br /> XVI. Xem them chi titft til: Roos W. Jamieson, and 18th Centuries" (unpublished manuscript,<br /> The Essence of Commodification: CaEfeine 2005), pp. 5-12.<br /> Dependencies in the Early Modem World", (9). Anne McCants, "Inequality among the Poor<br /> Journal of Social Histoiy, Vol. 35. Nc. 2, Winter of Eighteenth Centuiy Amsterdam," Explorations<br /> 2011, pp. (269-294) 275-277. in Economic History 44 (2007): 1-21. Xem thdm tit:<br /> (2). VI vSh d l tofln c l u hda giai dogn cfln dgi sO Anne McCants, "Ebcotic Goods, Popular<br /> ky, bSn cgnh cfic tfli l i | u ngopi vfln sS cung cfl'p Consumption, and the Standard of Living:<br /> trong cflc trich d i n titfp theo, cd t h l xem thSm m$t Thinking about Globalization in the Early Modem<br /> stf tfti ligu titfng Vi§t nhU: Arturo Giraldez, World", Journal of World History. Vol. 18, No. 4<br /> Thilippine vfl tofln c l u hda i l n d i u tidn", Tgp chf (Dec., 2007). p. (433-462) 447.<br /> 44 Rghien aim Ljch aiSr. atf 11.8012<br /> <br /> (10), VI vfi'ti d l nfly, cd t h l xem thflm tii so vdi ngfldi Anh m u a d Q u i n g Chflu thl til aau<br /> Leonard Blussd, Strange Company: Chinese nftm 1720 hp chl phfli trfl cao hdn k h o i n g I.l<br /> Settlers, Mestizo Women and the Dutch in VOC i l n so vdi ngfldi Anh m u a d Qu&ng Chflu. Cflng<br /> Batavia (Dordrecht; Foria, 1986) vfl Els M. Jacobs, vdi gifi chd m u a vfto g i i m m g n h d phfldng Ddng,<br /> Koopman in Azie: De handel van de Verenigde gifl chd b&n r a d chflu Au ciing g i i m theo. Xem<br /> Oost-Indische Compagnie tijdens de 18de eeuw thflm t d G l a m a n n , Dutch - Asiatic Trade, pp.<br /> (Zutphen: Walburg Pers, 2000). 212-222.<br /> <br /> (11). C. J. A. Jorg, Porcelain and the Dutch (16). Anne McCants, "Poor Consumers as<br /> China Trade (The Hague: Martinus Nijhoff, 1982). Global Consumers: The Diffusion of Tea and<br /> (12). J a n de Vries, "Connecting Europe a n d Coffee drinking in the Eighteenth Century",<br /> Asia: A Q u a n t i t a t i v e Analysis of the Cape Economic History Review, 6 1 , S l (2008), p. (172-<br /> Route Trade, 1 4 9 7 1 7 9 5 , " in Dennis O Flynn, 200), 177.<br /> Arturo Giraldez, and Richard von Glahn (eds). (17). C h i n g hgn, Immanuel Wallerstein, m$t<br /> Global Connections and Monetary History, trong stf c&c lufln thuytft gia n^i titfng v l "hf thtfng<br /> 1470-1800 (Aldershot: Ashgate Publishing, thg gidi" (World-System) cho r i n g "Nhiing gl chiu<br /> 2003), pp. 72, 82. A cung ctfp cho chflu Au thdi ky nfty [chi] Ifl c&c<br /> (13). D i n theo: Roos W. Jamieson, "The logi xa xi p h l m . Xa xi p h l m cd tflm quan trpng vft<br /> Essence of Commodification", pp. 282-283. khdng t h l phil nhfln, nhflng chung chi diing sau<br /> (14). Nghidn ciiu trUdng hflp nUdc Anh, S.D. Ifldng thUc-thUc p h l m Qua ml, gia aiic, cfl, dfldng)<br /> Smith cho r^ng da cd mdt bade ngol^t trong axf vft ngUdi lao d$ng cfln nudi trdng nhiing thil dd. Xa<br /> chuyin doi til chd sang cfl phfl trong gidi tidu xi p h l m ciing x^p sau vflng bpc, khdng phai v&ng<br /> dflng Anh thtf ky XVIII. Cho den khoang vfli thflp bpc tfeh tri3 mfl 1ft vflng bgc tidu diing nhU ti^i<br /> men dflu t h l ky XVIII, ngUdi tidu diing Anh Ua t$... So vdi lfldng thuc-th^c p h l m vft vftng bac,<br /> chu$ng ca cft phd vft chd. Tuy nhidn, tU giaa thtf n l n kinh ttf thtf gidi cd t h l d i l u chinh titdng dtft<br /> ky XVIII, cft phd khdng cdn dUflc ila chufing d d l dftng theo vf thay d l i cua n g u i n cung xa zi<br /> nudc Anh niia. Vfto gifla thflp nifin 1780, nUdc phlm". (Immanuel Wallerstein, The Modem<br /> Anh nhflp v l khoang 7 trigu poo (lb., tUdng World-System I: Capitalist Agriculture and the<br /> dUdng 450g) chd nhUng t&i xuft't di tdi 85% (chi Origins of the European World-Economy in the<br /> con lgi khoang n d a tri$u pao cho gidi tiSu diing Sixteenth Century (New York: Academic Press,<br /> Anh), trong khi dd lUflng chd nh&p v l ridng trong 1974), [J. 333.) Q u e n d i l m hp thtfp vai trd ciia<br /> nftm 1785-1787 da ldn dtfn 16,3 tri^u pao vft chl thfldng mpi tofln c l u mfl I. Wallerstein dfla ra<br /> mfit litflng nhd difflc t&i xu&'t ra khoi Anh. Xem trdn dfiy do bj phd phfln bdi n h i l u nhft sut hoc<br /> thdm tfl: S.D. Smith, "Accounting for Taste: qutfc ttf. C h i n g hpn Gunder Frank phg ph&n: "KJ<br /> British Coffee Consumption ni Historical thUc, cd m$t trfto h m phtf bitfn cho r i n g n l n Innh<br /> Perspective", The Journal of Interdisciplinary ttf thtf gidi chi thuc 8i,t "toftn c l u hda" f^ng<br /> History, Vol. 27, No. 2, 1996, p (183-214) 184. nhQng nflm g i n d&y. Nhiing ngfldi theo quan<br /> (15). Mdt trong stf c&c nguydn nhfln chu ytfu d i l m ciia (Fernand) Braudel v l " n l n kinh t l t h l<br /> ciia vifc dpi hp gia chd d Hft Lan Ifl do gifi cung gidi cua chfiu Au" hay q u a n d i l m ciia Wallerstein<br /> flng ciia chd do Hoa thfldng mang dtfn Batavia da v l "h§ thtfng thtf gidi cfln dgi" t h i n g thflng chtfi<br /> giam m a n h so vdi thdi gian trfldc dd. Ng^u nhU bo hoflc lang trfinh hi$n thi^c v l 'thj trfldng t h l<br /> trfldc nftm 1720 ngfldi H& Lan d Batavia phai gidi cfln dpi sd k y ciing nhU sfl phfin cdng cftn<br /> mua chd tCt Hoa thfldng vdi gi& cao hdn 3,12 Ifln ban v l lUc Iflflng lao ddng"... ""rrfli vdi nhiing hofti<br /> Tilr ly h-d lito lue dia' nghl ve..<br /> <br /> nghi vft chtfi bo thong thfldng trong gidi khoa hpc, thfldng mgi. M$t trfldng hflp kh&c chinh 1ft tfnh<br /> da cd mdt n l n kinh ttf the gidi mang tfnh toftn c l u thay thtf kha thi ciia nhflng m$t h&ng nhfl ch&m<br /> (a global world economy) ciing vdi sU phfin ehia nhu^m, td lya, dfldng, ngpc trai, v l i bdng, cft<br /> nhfin cdng lao ddng toftn c l u vft n l n thfldng mpi phg... dflpc aan xuft't tpi ca Xn Dd, A R§p, Ba Tfl...<br /> da phfldng trong giai dopn 1500 trd v l aau" (Xin Chlnh bdi sfl thay thtf a i n p h l m mang quy trinh<br /> xem: Gunder A. F r a n k , Reorient: Global Economy to&n c l u n&y mft k l tfl th&p nign lOSOs trd di, n l n<br /> in the Asian Age (Berkeley: University of thfldng mgi mang tfnh trung chuyin gifla cfic viing<br /> California Press, 1998), p . 52-53). Trong thgc tg', biln A Rflp vdi chfiu Au da bitfn m&'t ho&c tflng<br /> nhilu nghidn cflu trudc dd ciing dft chflng minh bfldc suy tftn, kdo theo si;t suy tho&i ciia thfldng<br /> h i | n tuflng "toftn cdu hda" ve san p h l m thfldng mpi gifla vflng Vjnh, Hdng Hai v& sfldn Tfly An<br /> mpi vft tifiu d d n g thdi ky nfty. Nghien cfln ciia Dd..." D i n Ipi tfl: Frank, Reorient, pp. 53-54.<br /> Cipolla cho thfl'y sfl canh t r a n h m a n h li^t i^.i I ' i (18). H. Nijboer and B. van Tilburg, 'Tussen<br /> trfldng chfiu Au gifla c&c thfldng p h l m t\u-, i . J , Compagnie en Handel-maatschappij: de<br /> ty nhfl vai vdc m i l n Ddng fin vft vai "i^ ^.l • \.\i, Nederlandse Kofdehandel in de Achttiende Eeuw",<br /> Bengal vft dfldng J a v a , dfldng Brazil vft dfldng tfl in P. Reinders and T.Wijsenbeek, eds., Koffie in<br /> c&e viing kh&c thudc m i l n Tfiy fl'n..,, giiJa td Iga Nederland: Vier Eeuwen Cultuurgeschiedenis<br /> Trung Qu^c vft Ba Tfl vdi td lya y, giita d6ng (Zutphen, 1994), pp. 25-34.<br /> Nh&t Ban, Hungary vft Thyy Diln vdi ddng khai<br /> (19). Anne McCants, "Poor Consumers as<br /> d vitng Tfiy fi'n, gifla cft phe Mocha, J a v a vdi cft<br /> Global Consumers", p. 177.<br /> phd trdng d viing Tay fi'n... Tft't ca c&c thUdng<br /> (20). Jamieson, "The Essence of<br /> p h l m nfty canh tranh quytft lifit vdi nhau. Vft<br /> Commodification", p. 286.<br /> "phong vii bieu" td't nhfl't t h l hi^n d cfic mflc gifi<br /> hftng hda trao d^i d Amsterdam..." Nghifin cilu (21). Jamieson, "The Essence of<br /> trfldng hdp Trung Cfin Ddng cua Rene Barendse Commodification", p. 286.<br /> cung ctfp thdm thdng tin ve phfin cdng lao ddng (22). Anne McCants, "Monotonous but not<br /> mang tfnh canh t r a n h hoftc thflm chf bii khuyet Meager: the Diet of Burgher Orphans in Early<br /> cho n h a u m a n g t i n h lien-xuyfin k h u vflc toftn c l u : Modern Amsterdam", Research in Economic<br /> "san p h l m tflp t r u n g d nhflng ndi gi& nh&n cdng History, 14 (1992), pp. 69-116.<br /> th&'p nhflt. Thflc ttf nfty (chfl khdng phai chi phi (23). V I lufin d i l m nfty, Sidney W. Mintz tiftig<br /> vftn chuyen thffp) giai thfch r i n g . . . Ifli thtf ve chi bftn dtfn trong chuyfin khao Sweetness and Power:<br /> phi (san xufl't) gdp phSn lifin ket thj trfldng chau The Place of Sugar in Modern World History (New<br /> A v& chfiu My lpi vdi n h a u , bfi't lufin sfl hpn chtf York, 19S5).<br />